Epic SB weekend

Well this weekend I headed up to SB to shred with Tim. We've both been super busy the past couple weeks so it has been awhile since we surfed together. We originally planned to surf down south but with the nw swell I cruised up to his place. Saturday we had one of the funnest days ever. We pulled up to sandspit and it was doing its thing. Only 3+ feet but it didn't matter, the barrels were perfect. We surfed their for 2 hours and each got one amazing tube each. Literally just sitting in the barrel for like 4+ seconds as the wave grows and bends along the sandbar. It was my first true sandspit barrel so I was pumped. Afterwords we took a break and checked a secret spot. After attempting hiking in twice from 2 different directions we finally made it and we're rewarded with hollow right handers by ourselves. If you've ever been to SoCal you know it's basically impossible to surf by yourself, so getting fun waves with just a good friend was super special.


Have to study for finals all week but this weekend of shredding will keep me going. Maybe I'll sneak out for a little if it's looking really good but going to be hitting the books super hard this week.


Here's a picture from "that place" in SB

cloudy sessions are the best

well the trick to surfing malibu is surfing 3rd point when the winds aren't perfect and clouds are in the sky....keeps everyone out of the water and today was a treat....the kelp keeps the faces super clean and the funnest, most rippable rights were consistently coming in with only a handful of guys....soooo good.


keep an eye out for an edit from this weekend I'm heading up to santa barbara


later

Sundays Shaping Playlist

Shaped and glassed for the day yesterday, heres some of what was playing on the iPod...


1 Flying Lotus -BBC Essential Mix
2 Jimi Hendrix - Midnight Lightening Album, Rainbow Bridge Concert,  Axis Bold as Love
3 NOFX- Greatest Songs Ever Written, Punk in Drublic, S&M Airlines,


Awesome Albums


Shaka

food coma

damn....i haven't been feeling great the past 2 days thanks to the crappy, rainy water down at el porto on saturday so after surfing for a couple days straight I decided to take yesterday off.....in doing so I couldn't wait to get back out today so I went to to 3rd from like 6-715..quick little session..i knew there was some swell left so I didn't care....I get out in the water and literally felt like I weighed 200 pounds. had a chicken wrap, slice of pizza and 2 cookies before I surfed...I don't know why I did but needless to say it was a stupid decision. the waves were gutless so add my food coma to the mix and for the most part surfed like a kook. got a couple good ones to end the session so at least I could walk out of the water with my held up high....until next time.....

busy weekend

What's goin on guys had a super busy but fun weekend. On saturday my friend who works for red bull hooked us up and surf team headed to el Porto for red bull tuneup with Ian Walsh. There were some super fun 4-5ft lefty and peaks and Ian was the man. Super laid back and down to earth. Asked him about a few tips which was rad. Afterwords, we headed to sharkees for free drinks and food courtesy of red bull. Sunday we geared up for red bull switchboard and partied all the way up to big bear and boarded for the day. Partied some more on the bus ride back while everyone was sleeping. Pretty ironic pepperdine kids were the ones wreaking the most havoc on the bus. Good times. This morning we were greeted with overhead shacks at westwards. Super fast and all lefts to so it was tricky but got a couple UBS ones. Shredded little dume with just a Friend this pm and was waist high and super fun. Here's a picture from this am at westies. Now I gotta go study all night for an Econ test.....ahh until next time.

Insert yourself here...

Big Dume

Had a great day in Malibu today. Woke up early before class and surfed a local righthand point break in the morning called Trancas. No one out and head high sets were lining down the point. The swell direction was a little crossed up, so you had to get the right wave but I got a few good ones. In the afternoon I decided to check another local right-hander called Big Dume that only works on a big swell and low tide. Lucked out and arrived to see head high sets grinding off the rocks. 10 minutes later, I was pumped to see that my friends showed up. A few of them were surfed out and decided to shoot some pictures which was epic. The others joined me out in the lineup and we traded waves for about an hour and a half while the guys on the beach did their best impression of Ben Stiller on the beach in his "locals only" skit. Super funny. Anyway, here a sequence of me on my best wave of the afternoon. Definitely a day to remember....hoping for more tomorrow, will keep you posted!